Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
