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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.